View Full Version : Lug nuts frozen
Donut Slayer
09-19-2007, 02:03 PM
Ok guys and gals give me some suggestions here. Last time I tried to pull the tires off my 700 the studs turned, not the lug nuts. Everysingle one of them. What gives? I've never had a tire off and their not rusted. The dang stud turns and not the nut. My wifes 400 is ok when I checked hers. I was thinking of using a dremel and cutting a cross slot so I could secure with a large screwdriver and loosen the nut with a box end wrench. Sound like a good idea? Or is there a better way?
Thats never happend to me yet anyhow.The idea sounds like a good way but will cutting a slot across the back of the stud affect it's strength in anyway??
This is a good one for the experts of the forum.
BIG_T
09-19-2007, 03:52 PM
Aluminum or steel wheels? Tapered lugnuts or the ones with a washer? I'm assuming from the age of yours that it's an open lugnut, and the slot you're going to cut is across the end, not the back. I don't see this being a bad option, and if you're only cutting the end of the bolt it won't affect the strength of the bolt. It could give you trouble with damaging threads though. The two things that might happen are:
1. Grinding will damage the threads or leave burrs. Just by turning the nut off this will probably get fixed.
2. After you cut the slot and use the screwdriver, it might spread the end of the bolt apart. The problem I forsee, if this happens, is you will need to use a pliers to bend the ends back in again to get the nut back on.
The worst that might happen is you have to replace the studs, so go ahead.
choPppps
09-19-2007, 04:10 PM
do you torque your lug nuts when you do them up? almost sounds like they were to tight.
my aluminum wheels are to be torqued to 90ft/lbs
on my 4.5 500 I think the torque was around 25ft/lbs as they were steel wheels
Donut Slayer
09-19-2007, 04:49 PM
I'm sorry, their factory steel wheels, open lug nuts and they have washers. They have never been off. I guess they were too tight from the factory. Yes the slot would be on the threaded side, cant get to the back side easily. When I adjusted my rear shocks, I had to do it with the rear tires on. That wasnt easy. I dont want to get a air chisel and pop the lugs, yet. But that may eventually happen.
Rubberdown
09-19-2007, 04:53 PM
have you tried spraying them with a penetrating oil yet and let them sit over night and then try them?
How about putting a teeny tiny bit of heat to the nuts before you try to loosen them to make them expand a teeny tiny bit?
Donut Slayer
09-19-2007, 05:02 PM
have you tried spraying them with a penetrating oil yet and let them sit over night and then try them?
How about putting a teeny tiny bit of heat to the nuts before you try to loosen them to make them expand a teeny tiny bit?
DOH, I didnt even think about a torch. :biggrin1: Ya know me, I just muscled my way right through it. If it didnt move, hit it harder. Thanks RD, I'll try that next.
Rubberdown
09-19-2007, 05:24 PM
LOL, I;'m usually the same way, but I am slowly learning to use less muscle and more brains..... I just wish i had more brains LOL. Also, dont use too much heat, remember you can always heat it up more if you have too right.
OnlyPolaris
09-19-2007, 06:59 PM
you could try an air impact. that might get it off easy.
Riven
09-19-2007, 07:05 PM
Seafoam Deep Creep is real good for freeing up rusted parts but heat can be even better. Keep the heat on the nut not on the stud as much as possible.
Cutting a slot will not hurt things at all. Might be a tough spot to work on but it should work.
Well I wouldn't use a torch unless you want your wheels to look like crap.. However whether the lug nut is seized to the stud is slightly irrevelant as the studs are pressed in and should in no way turn and its not something I have seen on the Polaris utes. If you gave me this problem here is how I would handle it... Remove the center axle nut so that you can take off the whole wheel, this wont work on fronts due to the brake rotor. Once you have your piece situated I would get out the die grinder and a good cut off wheel and get what you can of the lugnut cut off, then get a burr or griding stone for it and remove the rest, press the studs out and see if the stud holes are worn which they probably are because the stud is steel and the hub is aluminum. If they are you will be getting new hubs unless your going to be rigging something else up. If the hub is ok press in some new studs, since its not going to be as tight as new atleast put some loctite sleeve retainer on the press fit section of the stud. and put your wheels on. but first get a good air impact and try to scare them off, maybe you can get a buddy to hit the backside of the stud with a punch while you are spinning the other side. Good luck.:yo: if you were in my area I do things like this for money lol.
oh btw if you heat up the stud when it gets cool again it will be looser, if you find someone good with a torch and you don't care about the wheels you could knock them right off, I could probably cut the nut off and still not hurt the threads on the stud so its possible.
I dont really know if this does any good but when ever I have my wheels off I give the stud threads a light shot of WD40.
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