weird problem. need help.

["Bankrupt"]

so. we were riding today and the popo was running great like always. it was a bit chilly so after about 4 or 5 hours we decided to stop and build a fire, warm up some food and ourselves before we hit the trail again.

well the fire felt so good we wound up sitting there for over 3 hours just chatting and staring at the stars. but when we got reay to leave i cranked up my bike and was gonna let it warm up for a few minutes. nothing wrong. bike fired right up with a single flip of the key switch. but.. as soon as i was going to reach for the handlebar to climb up, the idle went from 1120 (normal) and started dropping. i told my friend "hum, the thermosts must have opened"

well when i sat down on the bike to take off it started missing and popping like crazy. wouldnt hardly even run. backfiring through the muffler and through the airbox. stuttering and popping and missing like crazy. would even pull me up a little tiny 5 foot tall hill. i had to get a run and go at it to get enough speed to get up it. i rode like that for about 12-14 mins on the way out and it never stopped. i just happened to look own wheile we were riding and saw the ground under my bike was red. thats when i realized that the first 2 feet of my exhaust pipe was cherry red. i stopped to let it cool off and when i did i thought "im going to turn the key on and off and listen to the fuel pump. so i was switching it on and off and noticed the words "WaiT" flash on the speedo.

seems i accidentaly found the key combination to check the codes on the bike. it flashed wait then showed 41 and 45. so i waited and it said ENd. so i tried cranking the bike up again and it ran perfect. no problems. ive tried several times since and cant get the WaiT to flash again. must not be using the right number of key turns.

any ideas what this could be?

[800Stealth]

That's the worst. A problem that fixes itself makes it tough to trust the bike. A glowing headpipe points towards lean, as does a backfire through the trottle body. Did it have a dead cylinder or was the miss more random? To access the codes turn the ignition on-off-on-off-on within 5 seconds.
Code 41- Intake air temp short to voltage or ground.
Code 45- Barometric pressure sensor low input.
hydnseek had the same codes on his 700 in a previous thread.

[Rubberdown]

Wow, I never even knew how to check codes, not to get off topic here but will an 04.5 500HO have codes?

[BOOMERANG]

It sounds like the same problem that Dingy had?

[800Stealth]

Wow, I never even knew how to check codes, not to get off topic here but will an 04.5 500HO have codes?

Only the EFI bikes.

[Riven]

On the non efi bikes you can check voltage, turn off wrench symbol, change from K's to miles & that is about it as far as i know.

I think turn the key to ON "not started", put the bike in "N", hold the reverse over ride button turn the key off but keep holding the button for 15 seconds.
release the button & turn the key back ON & you should be able to button your way through the menue

[hydnseek]

To get the diagnostic codes, you turn the key on and off three times quickly and leave it on.

Code 41 Air Temp Sensor: Short to Ground
Code 45 Barometric Pressure Sensor: Circuit Low Input

and I quote:

Temperature and Barometric Air Pressure Sensor Test
The temperature and barometric air pressure sensor (T-BAP) is a non-serviceable item. If it is faulty, it must be replaced. This sensor requires a 5 Vdc input to operate yada yada must us Polaris Diagnostic Software to diagnose.

Long story short you can either replace that sensor in hopes its the problem, or have your dealer plug into the computer. I think atleast you could let it hooked up and pierce the wires with a multimeter to see if it has the 5V. Thats one of the only sensors that do not give a test procedure outside of using a laptop.

If you have to get the harness kit could you please get me the part number for it.


I just had this EXACT problem (except for the red hot pipe) I didnt run mine
but it ran in my garage the same way you explained yours, and I had the same error codes. I tried a bunch of differeent stuff (fuel filter, plugs cleaned throttle body, replaced T-MAP sensor) and had to take it to the dealer. It ended up being the ETC control on the handlebar was loose and out of adjustment. If there is more than 1/8 play it is designed to cut out the engine.

Hope this helps

[mud monkey 7-4-80]

You have to have the bike in neutral with the park brake locked then turn the key on and off 3 times. That should get you back to the codes.

[cd]

To get the diagnostic codes, you turn the key on and off three times quickly and leave it on.




I just had this EXACT problem (except for the red hot pipe) I didnt run mine
but it ran in my garage the same way you explained yours, and I had the same error codes. I tried a bunch of differeent stuff (fuel filter, plugs cleaned throttle body, replaced T-MAP sensor) and had to take it to the dealer. It ended up being the ETC control on the handlebar was loose and out of adjustment. If there is more than 1/8 play it is designed to cut out the engine.

Hope this helps


your kidding, some of the simplest things are so hard to find arent they...

["Bankrupt"]

funny thing was after i turned it off and saw the codes, it ran fine ever since.

cranked it up today and it runs and drives out just fine. but i would hate to get out next weekend and have it happen again.

[hydnseek]

I would still make sure it is adjusted properly....mine died about a month before I had my problems, got towed for a mile or two, and it started right up, then ran fine for a month or so. Still sounds very familiar to me.