Starter or starter solinoid...that is the question????

[Rubberdown]

So after fixing my hydrolocked motor issue, my starter does not work, I originally thought I fried the starter solinoid next to the battery since the starter would not turn over due to the motor being locked. I did see some sparks when I tried to start it at that time as well coming from near the battery and solinoid so sure as shit, I thought the solinoid was screwed. I can pull start the beast but thats about it. When I do turn the key over, I do hear a click in the solinoid so that has me thinking that it may not be the solinoid, and it may be something in the starter.

What do you guys think?

[cd]

paul if you have a 12v tester of some nature get and see if your getting voltage to the starter lug when you turn the key to start. if not try to take a piece of metal or screwdriver and cross the two large lugs on the solenoid, if it starts then it is the solenoid, if you can get voltage to the starter but still no go it is the starter.

[800Stealth]

I would also check the ground side of the circuit, just use jumper cables hook one to the negative battery other to the starter itself or one of the bolts holding it in. If it starts then you have a bad ground.

[PoPoRZR]

Ok make sure the solonoid is getting 12 volts if it isnt getting 12volts that is the problem it takes 12 volts to the solonoid to push the plunger up to send volts to the battery so i would check all the volts at the solonoid to....I hope i made myself clear.....

[Rubberdown]

if I knew how to use a volt meter, I would do that, if someone can tell me what to turn it to, I can check it, all I have ever used one of those for was to check if a fuse is dead or not.

[SCRAMMYTODD]

Give the starter a tap with a hammer with the key in the crank position. If it whirls over then, I would guess the brushes are stuck in the starter. It's a struggle to get the starter off but the rebuild is pretty easy. Seeing that you ride in a little water I would think that would be a good place to start.

[popomonster]

every meter is differant, but mine just has 2 options AC or DC. the one at work has a button for 12v and a button for DC.

[PoPoRZR]

DC power straight line it will look like dc-

[yogi]

i have to agree with SCRAMMYTODD on his post.
i had the same problem it is a pain in the ass to remove the lower bolt they should of used a shorter one. and it takes a little prying agaisnt the clutching backing plate but it will come out. when i took mine apart the brushes were stuck in the holder and not touching the amature. freed them up and washed the rest of it clean and put it back together grinded the bolts a little shorter for easyier install and she turned over and stated the pig right up.

[800Stealth]

DON'T hit the starter with a hammer, it is a permanent magnet design. if the magnet cracks than it can not be rebuilt, the whack it with a hammer trick may work on a 73 chevy, but not on this type of starter. Put your volt meter on the DC volt setting hook the negative lead to the negative battery terminal, put the positive lead on the poitive terminal on the starter (where the large red wire bolts on) and turn the key to crank it over, if the meter reads at least 10 volts, then it's time to check the ground side. Switch your volt meter to ohms, connect one lead to the negative battery, the other to the starter itself or one of the mounting bolts you should have a reading between 0-20 ohms, if not check all your ground wires. If the ohm reading is close to zero and you have atleast 10 volts at the positive start terminal it's time for a rebuild. If there is no voltage at the positive starter terminal then with the volt meter on DC volts hook the negative lead to the negative battery terminal and the positive lead to the large red wire on the solenoid that gos to the starter and try to crank it over, if you have 10+ volts there than you have a bad wire between the starter and solenoid. If no voltage there hook your postive lead to the small wire on the solenoid and try cranking again, if the small wire has 10+ volts then the solenoid is bad. if the small wire has no voltage while trying to crank the you have a problem with the key switch. I know this was kind of long winded but I hope it helps you out Paul. Good luck

[SCRAMMYTODD]

I didn't say HIT the starter, just a little love tap LOL

[Rubberdown]

Okay, the little love tap didnt work, and after reading your reply 800stealth, I think my head hurts all of a sudden LOL. I know pretty much nothing about electrical shit, so I'll print it out and read it one suggestion at a time on the weekend and see what I can come up with. Thanks guys for the help.

[badmaners]

Paul if I lived a little closer I'd be there in a second to help ya. Most multi-meters are a little different from each other. The above posts are perfectly worded so just follow along. And it's definately not a 73 Chevy LOL. Been there done that....

[cd]

Paul just for you they make 12v testers and continuity testers, one lights up when you get 12 volts, the other lights up when you have conductivity. I always use a multimeter but your like my dad, get something simple.