Awww crap. Help me please

[Donut Slayer]

This is what i found today. Can someone give me the cliff note version on how to change it? Which boot is the best? And where do I get one at? thanks.
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l298/RLB194/100_1181.jpg
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l298/RLB194/100_1177.jpg
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l298/RLB194/100_1179.jpg

[cd]

I have that boot in stock, $21.95 +sh heavy duty pm or click the link in sig for contact info. chris

[Rubberdown]

I have not had to change a rear inner before, but I did try to pull my rear axles out once and man oh man, it was NOT coming out of the diff so I changed the outer joint with the axle still on the machine....

[Dirtbmw20]

Donut Slayer, here's a good piece of advice. Days and days before I pull my cv axles out I start spraying it down with some rust penetrant. Example, if I knew I was going to change it this saturday, then every day before I go to work I would go into the garage and spray rust penetrant in between the axle and the housing and just let in run down, then when I got home from work that evening I would do the same thing, give a good spray, and do that every day until you change it or at least a few days, and it will make it SO much easier to get out, THEN be very liberal with the anti seize when going back together.

["Bankrupt"]

you can get them several places. most every boot is made y the same exact company. alot of people just sell them as their own. 99% of them (except gorilla) are made by rockford.


as for what paul said, its true. if you never had it out before it will be a pain. you might wind up having to build some sort of slide hammer like i did.

but good thing is that if you ca get the first one out, the second one is cake. the rear dif os open from one side to the other. once you get the first one out, stick something inside the rear diff and hit the other side from the back. and take my advice when i tell you to clean the splines REALLY good before you put it back together. both on the axle and inside the rear diff. and put a good portion of anti seize on there when you stick it back together.



as for how.

just pull the rear wheel, take the hub nut off, remove the caliper (if its the right rear) slide the hub out, remove the upper a arm bolt, remove the sway bar mount, remove the lower 2 a arm bolts and slide the spacers out about 1/2 a inch (just take the bolt, slide it inside the spacer and the pry up and down while pulling out.

once you do that you should be able to remove the rear carrier and have full access to the rear axle.

[Donut Slayer]

So, can I do it myself or should I take it to the dealer? Or will the dealer rape me?

[OnlyPolaris]

do it yourself. it is pretty straight forward and it should only take a couple of hours.

[Dirtbmw20]

Definitely do it yourself, the dealer will way over charge you for the ease of the job, it's just time consuming.

[Riven]

I have not had to change a rear inner before, but I did try to pull my rear axles out once and man oh man, it was NOT coming out of the diff so I changed the outer joint with the axle still on the machine....

Same thing here. Had to change the rear inner by taking the outer apart. NOT FUN.


Must be nice to still have green grass. I got 24" of snow:canada:

[Turk]

Man I hope I never have to change mine but I guess sooner or later we all have to do it for the first time.I just hope for me it's later...much later.

[Bigdog800EFI]

Two hours of shop labor plus parts=190.00

[Dirtbmw20]

Three hours in my garage plus parts = $35.00

[Donut Slayer]

Three hours in my garage plus parts = $35.00

Sold!!! I'll even bring the beer. :becky:

[Dirtbmw20]

LOL, I hear ya Slayer. That's what it costed me to do mine. I got schooled real quick on cv boots, in one ride alone I busted all four boots on the rear along with one inner on the front, FIVE cv boots on a two hour ride. It took me about three hours to do the first one, after that, you'll breeze through them.

["Bankrupt"]

It took me about three hours to do the first one, after that, you'll breeze through them.

i second that.

i lernt myself real quick after a local shop charged me 90.00 to do 1 even when i supplied the boot, clamps, grease and everything.

now i can do it in under 45 mins with my eyes closed.

[Bigdog800EFI]

Ya, it takes longer to get the tools out and put them away, than to change the boot

[BIG_T]

The worst part is going to be gettign the cup out of the rear gearcase. I had to use a slide hammer to get it out. It worked pretty well actually. 3 hours with a prybar, 2 minutes with a slide hammer.

[Turk]

Two hours of shop labor plus parts=190.00


Whats the hourly shop labor rate?? I'm going to guess about $75.00 an hour ??

[cd]

Whats the hourly shop labor rate?? I'm going to guess about $75.00 an hour ??

apparently i need to charge more, if this take a shop two hours they must be doing some major dickin around.

[Atomic]

Do ya need to pull the inner hub from the Diff.??? Shouldn't you be able to just cut the torn boot off then remove snap ring holding the shaft in the cv joint??

Buy a can of "brake cleaner" and "wash" grease from cv(thats how I do it) its messy but works well. repack with new grease then slide shaft back into cv.

If you want the service man. I may be able to upload it.

Atomic

[Turk]

Before I started working on & fixing my own ATV I took my machine to the dealer to be fixed after bending a tie rod and damaging the a-frame and at that time the hourly labor rate was $75.00,they cut me a little break and only charged me $65.00 an hour.Long story short it ended up costing me about $230.00 out the door for that little mistake I made on the trail.After that I looked up the parts and found out I could've done it myself for much cheaper.

[Bigdog800EFI]

Most shops around here charge 85.00 per hour. When they write out an estimate it goes by book hours and they allways round up.

[cd]

i'm independent and can't pull $85 an hr, I am at $45 an hour which is on the high side for my area, I should be close to 50 in a year or so. I haven't timed myself in awhile but I could do a rear cv on a polaris in 1/2 an hour to 45 min. Everything gets a 1 hr min. charge so they fall under that.

[Riven]

My local POPO dealer is in the $40-45hr range & it still costs an arm & a leg every time it rolls through the door.

[Donut Slayer]

I guess I'm gonna jump on it myself. Where do I get the pliers to install the clamp? Any auto parts store? I have a shop manual for my 700, but the boot is on my wifes 400. Hopefully it'll be close. Thanks a bunch guys.

[Rubberdown]

I have a few different band tools that I got here and there, but by far the best are the ones that tighten and cut the band all at once. I got mine off ebay, I think it was dirtbmw20 that found me a link, I'll see if I can find them again for you, they were only about $15 I think...

[Rubberdown]

http://cgi.ebay.ca/CV-Joint-Banding-Cutting-Crimping-Tool-OTC-Stinger_W0QQitemZ120191543552QQihZ002QQcategoryZ43 996QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.ca/OTC-CV-Joint-Banding-Tool-and-Cutter_W0QQitemZ280172426863QQihZ018QQcategoryZ439 96QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem

[Dirtbmw20]

Yep, yep... that's the same exact tool I bought. I thought it worked pretty dam good for the price compared to the $30.00-$40.00 tool from Gorilla.

[OnlyPolaris]

my dealer in my town charges $95 an hour. for my cv boots i just use pliers.

["Bankrupt"]

our labor rate is 60.00 but we charge by the 1/2 hour. and round up in 15 min increments. so 15 min is billed at a 1/2 hour and 45 is billed at a hour.

and gorilla sells a pretty damn nice cv band tool for really cheap. better than the ones on ebay.

http://www.gorilla-axle.com/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=359

[Rebel64]

Looks exactly like the one that I bought from Turner...definitely a handy all-in-one tool.