Yamaha Rhino Lift Kit Instructions

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Parts included with the lift kit.

Complete Kit.



Front Kit



Rear Kit

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Front Lift instructions.

-Lift the front of the machine off the ground with a jack

-Using a 14mm and a 17mm wrench, remove the top shock mounting bolt on both sides of the machine allowing the shocks to move down and out of the way of the factory mounting location.






-Slide 1 plate through the inside of the frame channel from one side to the other until the 2 inner holes line up with the factory shock mounting holes of the channel and insert a bolt on each side pointing towards the front of the machine. Also include an aluminum spacers in between the channel when you put the bolts through the holes.



- You will now be required to remove the little plastic wire clamps that hold the wires to the front section of this channel in order to make room for the front plate.



-Carefully slide the front polate into p[osition and slide it onto the 2 bolts that go through the factory holes, put the nuts on loosely for now.



-Lift the shock into place and slide another bolt through the 2 remaining holes and the top of the shock.

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Front Lift Continued

-Tighten all bolts and use tie straps provided to secure the wires that were attached to the frame channel.

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Rear lift instructions.

-Lift the rear of the machine off the floor with a jack and tilt the dump box.

-Remove rear tires

-Remove rear hub assembly (a 30mm socket will be required for the axle nut)

-Lift the upper a-arm up and out of the way, I used a bungee cord to hold it up and out of my way so I could work on the lower shock mount.

-Do the same thing with the axle, lift it up and out of the way, again, I used a bungee cord on that as well.

-Using an angle/disk grinder of some sort, you MUST grind away some of the material on the lower shock mount as pictured, this will prevent the shock mount from rubbing a hole in the rear outer CV boots. I did one side with the lower end of the shock removed and the other side with the shock still mounted in place, it can be done either way. I used a little black spray paint on the ground surface to prevent it from rusting.









-Now reassemble everything, the axle nut should be torqued to 230 ft/lbs, I used somne lock tight and an air impact until it wouldn't tighten anymore. Make sure you press that little tab back into the groove on the end of the axle threads, this is supposed to act like a "lock" for the nut.

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Rear Lift Continued.

-Now you can remove the top shock mounting bolt using a 14mm and 17mm wrench



-Pull the shock out of the way and slide the lift block into place and use the factory bolt to secure it, but dont tighten the nut, just leave it loose for now.





-Put the shock into position in the lift block and slide a 12mm bolt through the block, and the shock and put the nut on but leave it loose for now. Some down pressure on the wheel hub will likely be required, have one of your buddies that are sitting there watching you do all the work, drinking all of your beer help you out LOL.





-Repeat everything on the other side of the machine and once finished, tighten all the nuts and bolts up when you have everything in place.

[BOOMERANG]

Typical men who refuse to read the instructions. Stanley has got the front installed. Ran out of time to finish up. He will have the back done tomorrow afternoon. The front was 11" ground clearance, now it's 12 1/2"

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cool, hope he was able to figure it out without too much trouble.

[BOOMERANG]

Did you design the lift for a 660?

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Yes. My test machine was in fact a 660, you had said that you thought it would fit the 700 after Stanley looked at the pictures I posted a while ago. Did something NOT fit???

[BOOMERANG]

The radiator mount of the 700 is different than the 660. He and Chuck both had to drill 2 holes in the front piece. He had to grind the ends to clear the reservoir shocks also. But so far, it all works fine. They both got the packages today and started work immediately.

Stanley took pictures and added new measurements for the 700. I will send those your way tomorrow.

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See, whats funny about your 2 packs is that they both got shipped by the same UPS guy from the same UPS store at the exact same time, 1 pack right after the other, and for some reason, one was about $14 and the other was about $19, and now that you say you guys are so close, I dont get that at all LOL.

If he can measure where and how big he had to drill, can you PM it to me please, then I can make the changes for the rest of the kits before we powder coat them. Also if he could take a picture of it where he drilled it, and where he had to grind it, that would be the best Boom!

Thanks.

[BOOMERANG]

We live less than 5 miles from Chuck. Stanley took pics and did modifications and measurements on those pictures. I'm going to get him to sign on tomorrow and email those to you.

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Thanks honey

[probus]

what are you getting out of those lifts? i have been thinking real hard about a small lift and i like the looks of this one.

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We were aiming for 2" but I think it was closer to around 1-3/4" front and rear on the 660 we used for testing.

[Mudchuck]

Alot of our issues were from having the sport shocks. The inside of the rear mount had to be ground out. On the front mount it also had to be ground because it hit the top of the shocks before the hole lined up to get the bolt in.

And on the radiator mount. On the 700 the radiator is mounted on the same cross bar as where the front part of the lift mounts. You have to take the top screws out of the radiator and slide the bar in behind it. And like Boom said you just have to drill a couple of hole in the lift bar so those screws can go back into original holes.

Oh, and the rear shocks were hell to compress enough to get the bolt in.


Chuck

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did you end up getting it all in there Chuck? We can make some changes to the kit and send you out a new one, I was waiting on Stanley to send me some pictures and dimensions of what needed to be changed.

What was the lift increase if you did in fact get it all installed?

Thanks.

[Mudchuck]

You will need to modify a little for the 700 with sport shocks. And yes I did get it all on. I wasn't able to measure mine because I did it in the backyard. It's definitely in the 1 1/2 to 2" range.

Here is a pic

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Here is where back had to be ground off. I just colored it white to show you. I forgot to take a pic of the actual piece after I ground it.

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Here is where the front had to be ground off.

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And here is where the radiator had to be take loose to slide the front lift in.

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Cool, machine looks great though, thanks for testing it out for me. Hopefully Boilermaker took some measurments and i can modify the kit to be a perfect fit for the sport and non sport 700 Rhinos.

[Mudchuck]

I forgot this pic of the front mount before I ground it off. The one above is after. And the next pic shows where the mount hits the shock.

IMO the rear needs to be milled out 1/16th inch deeper.

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